Ao Dai
Early versions of the Ao Dai date back to 1744, when men and women
to wear a trouser and gown ensemble that buttoned down the front. Although
popular, men wore it less often than women, and generally only on ceremonial
occasions such as at weddings and funerals. It took another twenty years before
the next major design change occurred and nearly another two hundred years
before the modern Ao Dai emerged.
The original Ao Dai was loosely tailored with four panels (Ao Tu Than),
two of which were tied in the back. In 1930, a Vietnamese fashion designer and
writer, Cat Tuong, lengthened the top so it reached the floor. Tuong also
fitted the bodice to the curves of the body and moved the buttons from the
front to an opening along the shoulder and side seam. As a result of these
changes, Ao Dai became a contoured, full-length dress. The dress splits
into a front and back panel from the waist down. During the 1950s two tailors
in Saigon, Tran Kim of Thiet Lap Tailors and Dung of Dung Tailors, started
producing the gowns with raglan sleeves. This created a diagonal seam running
from the collar to the underarm and is the preferred style today.
There have been many stylish alterations in color and collar design in
the past four decades. Most noticeable is the gradual shortening of the gown's
length, such that today, it is usually just below the knee. Variations in the
neck collar, between boat and mandarin style, are common. But more
adventurous alterations such as low scooped necklines, puffed sleeves, and
off-the-shoulder designs are emerging as more women experiment with fashion.
Less rigid control over color and access to new fabrics, have also created
dazzling results. Every Ao Dai is custom-made, accounting for the fit that
creates a flattering look for each woman.
It is hard to think of a more elegant, demure and yet sexy outfit, that
suits Vietnamese women of all ages than the Ao Dai.